Record — updated 2026-07

Collard Greens Companion Plants

Entry No. 012

Brassica oleracea var. viridis · mustard family family · rotation group: brassica

The best companion plants for collard greens are Mustard (perimeter trap crop), Arugula (alternative trap plant), Cabbage, Sweet alyssum, and White clover (undersown living mulch). Avoid planting collard greens near Other brassicas, Strawberry, Pole bean, Tomato. Of the 12 pairings recorded here, 5 are supported by published research and 6 are traditional practice with no controlled evidence behind them.

Research-backed tested in controlled research Traditional long practice, untested Not supported tested and not supported

What to plant with collard greens

Companion plants for collard greens — 5 research-backed, 2 traditional
Plant Claimed benefit Evidence What the evidence actually shows
Arugula (alternative trap plant) Arugula, rapini and rapeseed also draw harlequin bugs away from collards. Research-backed In the same replicated host-preference study, mustard, rapeseed, rapini and arugula were all significantly more attractive to harlequin bug than collard. Mustard was the most consistently preferred and is the only one taken through to field trap-crop trials, so arugula is a supported second choice rather than a proven substitute.
Cabbage Collards planted as a border protect a cabbage crop by absorbing the diamondback moth pressure. Research-backed Here collards are the trap crop, not the protected crop. Screenhouse trials found diamondback moth laid 3-18x more eggs on glossy collards, waxy collards and Indian mustard than on cabbage when given a choice, and UF/IFAS lists collards as a trap crop for diamondback moth on cabbage. Larvae do survive on collards, so unlike a dead-end trap this needs the trap row treated or the collards themselves take heavy damage.
Mustard (perimeter trap crop) A perimeter row of mustard pulls harlequin bugs off the collards and concentrates them where they can be killed. Research-backed This is one of the best-evidenced pairings in vegetable gardening. Choice tests showed harlequin bug consistently prefers mustard over collard; field trials at two sites showed mustard borders reduced feeding damage, with spring collards holding under 1% leaf damage. A follow-up found spacing matters: a 2.3 m gap between mustard and collards cut egg-laying on collards about fourfold and damage about 2.5-fold versus an adjacent trap row, because females otherwise commute across to lay. Requires scouting and killing the bugs on the trap crop.
Sweet alyssum Strips of flowering alyssum near collards build up hoverflies, lady beetles and parasitoid wasps that suppress aphids and caterpillars. Research-backed A replicated organic cabbage study using a glossy-collard trap mix found insectary alyssum significantly raised parasitism of the cross-striped cabbageworm and the abundance of predatory lady beetle eggs and larvae. Note this is measured as natural-enemy activity and pest suppression, not as a yield increase, and it works as a strip rather than a couple of scattered plants.
White clover (undersown living mulch) Collards undersown with a low living clover receive fewer cabbage root fly eggs and less aphid colonisation. Research-backed Repeated cage and field work reduced cabbage root fly egg counts in clover-undersown brassicas. The decisive control: brown desiccated clover gave no protection while living green clover did, so the mechanism is disrupted host-plant finding over a green background rather than any repellent chemistry. The trade-off is real competition for water and nitrogen, so undersow only once collards are established and expect to irrigate more.
Dill Dill flowers supply nectar to the parasitoid wasps that attack cabbageworms and aphids on collards. Traditional The nectar-subsidy mechanism is well established for insectary plants in general, but the species actually trialled in brassica systems are sweet alyssum and buckwheat. Dill specifically has not been tested here, and extension companion charts confusingly list dill both as a beneficial-insect plant and as something to keep away from cabbage-family crops.
Nasturtium Nasturtium is grown as a sacrificial magnet for aphids and cabbage white butterflies. Traditional Nasturtium is a genuine host for both pests so the idea is plausible, but the brassica trap-crop literature that has actually been trialled uses mustard, kale, collards and yellow rocket. No replicated data supports nasturtium in this role.
Thyme Aromatic herbs like thyme, sage and mint are said to repel cabbage moths from collards. Not supported Tested and not supported in the form usually claimed. Experiments comparing aromatic against non-aromatic companion plants around brassicas found aromatic species were no better than ordinary green plants, and aromatic plants did not repel the flies so much as interrupt their host-selection sequence; dried plant material produced no effect at all. Any benefit comes from green ground cover, not from thyme's scent.

What not to plant with collard greens

Plants to keep away from collard greens
Plant Claimed problem Evidence What the evidence actually shows
Other brassicas Growing collards next to or after other cabbage-family crops concentrates shared pests and builds up soil diseases. Traditional The rotation half is firm extension practice — black rot, Alternaria leaf spot, clubroot and Fusarium yellows persist in soil and debris, so brassicas are kept out of a bed for several years. The same-season adjacency penalty is inferred from that rather than measured, and it partly conflicts with the trap-cropping evidence, where deliberately planting a more attractive brassica nearby protects the crop.
Pole bean Pole beans are listed as a plant to keep away from cabbage-family crops. Traditional Untested. The only defensible objection is physical: a bean trellis shades collards and blocks the row cover that is the main non-chemical defence against cabbageworms and flea beetles. The nutrient-competition story does not hold up either way without measurement.
Strawberry Strawberries are listed among plants not to grow near cabbage-family crops. Traditional Chart folklore repeated across extension and garden publications with no trial behind it; the source itself notes companion planting is not an exact science. There is no measured yield, growth or pest effect for collards and strawberry.
Tomato Tomatoes are said to compete with collards because both are heavy feeders. Traditional No trial supports it. Both crops are in fact heavy nitrogen feeders — Clemson recommends repeat side-dressing of collards with calcium nitrate — so competition is plausible if they are crowded, but it is a fertility and spacing question that fertiliser and 30-inch rows solve, not an inherent incompatibility.

The honest verdict

Of everything gardeners recommend planting alongside collard greens, 5 pairings have been tested properly: Mustard (perimeter trap crop), Arugula (alternative trap plant), Cabbage, Sweet alyssum, White clover (undersown living mulch). Those are the ones worth planning your bed around.

The remaining 2 pairings on this page are traditional practice. They circulate on every companion planting chart online, but we could not find controlled evidence testing them. They are not wrong so much as unverified — most cost nothing to try, and interplanting flowers and herbs has its own well-documented benefit of pulling pollinators and predatory insects into the garden.

Widely repeated, not supported: Thyme — Tested and not supported in the form usually claimed. Experiments comparing aromatic against non-aromatic companion plants around brassicas found aromatic species were no better than ordinary green plants, and aromatic plants did not repel the flies so much as interrupt their host-selection sequence; dried plant material produced no effect at all. Any benefit comes from green ground cover, not from thyme's scent.

Every row above links to the publication it came from. See how we grade evidence.

Growing collard greens: the numbers

Field data — Collard Greens
SunFull sun (6+ hours)
WaterModerate
Spacing12 in apart · 30 in between rows · 1 per square foot
Mature sizeabout 30 in tall
Soil pH6–6.5
Days to maturity60–80 days
Frost toleranceHardy — takes hard frost
ContainersYes — 5 gallon minimum
Typical yieldrepeated leaf harvests over 2-3 months
Common pestsimported cabbageworm, cabbage looper, diamondback moth, harlequin bug, aphid, flea beetle, cabbage maggot
Common diseasesblack rot, downy mildew, Alternaria leaf spot, Fusarium yellows, clubroot

When to plant collard greens

Zone 6b shown
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Start indoors Sow / transplant outdoors Harvest

Start seeds indoors: Feb 27 – Mar 13 — 4–6 weeks before your last frost

Transplant outdoors: Mar 27 – Apr 9 — 2 weeks before last frost

Direct sow outdoors: Mar 27 – Apr 9 — 2 weeks before last frost

Expected harvest: May 26 – Jun 15 — 60–80 days from planting

Fall planting: Aug 4 – Aug 17 — 12 weeks before your first fall frost

Those dates are for zone 6b. Get your own dates by ZIP code →

Varieties worth knowing

seeds

Variety names link to seeds on Amazon. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. These are the varieties named in the extension sources for this crop, not a paid placement — where a source recommended a variety for a specific reason, that reason is the note beside it.

Put it in a bed

The garden planner checks every square against this ledger as you place crops — if you drop collard greens next to something recorded as a bad neighbour, the square turns red and tells you why.

Records for the plants named above:

Same rotation group (brassica) — don't follow one with another:

Collard Greens companion planting questions

What should not be planted next to collard greens?
Other brassicas, Strawberry, Pole bean, Tomato. Growing collards next to or after other cabbage-family crops concentrates shared pests and builds up soil diseases. The rotation half is firm extension practice — black rot, Alternaria leaf spot, clubroot and Fusarium yellows persist in soil and debris, so brassicas are kept out of a bed for several years. The same-season adjacency penalty is inferred from that rather than measured, and it partly conflicts with the trap-cropping evidence, where deliberately planting a more attractive brassica nearby protects the crop.
How far apart should collard greens be planted?
Space collard greens about 12 inches apart in the row, with 30 inches between rows. In a square-foot bed that works out to 1 plant per square foot.
Does companion planting with collard greens actually work?
Partly. 5 of the pairings on this page are backed by published research — Mustard (perimeter trap crop), Arugula (alternative trap plant), Cabbage, Sweet alyssum, White clover (undersown living mulch). The rest are traditional practice: plausible, harmless to try, but untested. Treat the folklore as a starting point rather than a rule, and read what the evidence says about companion planting.
When should I plant collard greens?
Start seed indoors 4–6 weeks before your last frost. Transplant outdoors 2 weeks before last frost. In zone 6b that means roughly Mar 27 – Apr 9. Get exact dates for your ZIP code →

Sources for this record

Record compiled 2026-07. Spot an error or a study we missed? Tell us and we'll correct the entry.